Wine review: Clean Slate riesling 2007

Riesling is a funny thing. Some people won’t drink it because it’s sweet, and other people only drink it because it is sweet. So how about drinking the Clean Slate because it’s enjoyable?

Sweet wine is neither good nor bad because it’s sweet, just like dry wine is neither good nor bad because it’s dry. How often does someone refuse to drink cabernet sauvignon because it’s too dry? Sweet wine is worth drinking based on whether the winemaker pays attention, and the sweetness should be balanced by the fruit and the acid in the wine.

That’s mostly the case with the Clean Slate (about $10, available at selected Krogers and Centennials), a German wine from the Mosel. It’s a simple wine, but it has enough lemon-lime acidity to balance the sweetness. The Germans have six levels of sweetness, and this is about the second most dry. Drink the Clean Slate at any holiday event, and it will also pair with roast ham and spicy food.


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