Wine review: Domaines Francois Lurton Les Fumees Blanches 2006

This is the kind of wine that makes me walk a little quicker down the aisle at the store. That’s because as soon as I see it, my cheap wine radar goes off.

In this case, my radar worked perfectly. The Lurton is a sauvignon blanc from the Languedoc in southern France, where more and more great cheap wine is being made. (And the Lurtons are one of the great winemaking families of France, producing everything from $500 Cheval Blanc to vin ordinaire like this.)

It probably has too much grapefruit flavor for a French wine, but that’s picking nits. There is great stoniness and minerality, and this is about as close to classic white Bordeaux as one is going to find for $10 (available at World Market). Even more surprising, this is not the current vintage. If you can find the 2007, it will probably taste a little fresher and a little more interesting. Regardless, it’s an early candidate for the 2010 $10 Hall of Fame.

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