Restaruant talk: Pizza Patrón

Along with "bacon makes everything taste better" and "butter makes everything taste better," one food adage I always stand by says "there is no such thing as bad pizza." While I’ve never eaten at a Cici’s Pizza Buffet, I contend that there are only levels of pizza. And that’s why I gave Pizza Patrón a shot one recent afternoon when I was tired and running on fumes.

One of the Patrón’s features is the $6 "Pizza Lista," a 15-inch pepperoni or cheese pizza that’s already made and pulled out of a hotbox when you order it. Even though it’s a dollar more than Little Caesar’s "Hot and Ready," I went for the pepperoni. And it was about what I expected. The bottom crust was a little mushy, but the edges were crispy. It was greasy and delightful as a Big Mac or a fried chicken drumstick. Since the pie was cut in strips and not wedges, I ate around the edges and left the rest for my boyfriend, who happily ate the mushy middle pieces when he got off work.

Once I was familiar with the "Lista," I decided to try a specialty pizza on a second visit. And since it’s a mexican pizza place, I went for "La Mexicana," which has chorizo, ground beef, onions, bell peppers and jalapeños. It’s a 12-inch pizza, and it’s also $6 — a big lunch for two people. It wasn’t as mushy this time, but I noticed the crust doesn’t have flavor. Even so, I liked having chorizo on my pizza. It was as much a revelation as the time in 1990, when I discovered at Subway that you can put black olives on a sandwich. Groundbreaking stuff here.

So Pizza Patrón does not have good pizza any more than McDonald’s has good hamburgers. But it’s not bad.



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