Wine review: Homestead Winery Don Gabriel Zinfandel 2007

Texas winemakers and grape growers are slowly moving away from the traditional European varietals, like cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, in favor of lesser known grapes that are better suited to the state’s hot, dry climate.

The favorites of the moment are viognier, a white grape from the south of France, which several wineries have turned into an attractive alternative to chardonnay, and the Spanish tempranillo, which has produced some fine wines in limited use. I’m not as sold on tempranillo as many others in Texas are, for it can be a difficult grape to work with in the winery and it may have ripening problems in the state.

All of which is a roundabout way to get to the Don Gabriel. Zinfandel is a grape that has been overlooked in Texas, which is kind of surprising. It’s a warm climate varietal that has enjoyed great success in California, and we know much more about growing it in this country than we do tempranillo. I mention it this week because DrinkLocalWine.com, which focuses on U.S. regional wine, is holding its third annual Regional Wine Week.

Because, based on the Don Gabriel ($13, sample), we should be growing more of it in Texas. Winemaker Gabe Parker makes some very interesting wines, and I’ve even had a pinot noir blend (unheard of in Texas) that was quite pleasant. The Don Gabriel is a fruity — yes, the traditional blueberry — with low alcohol and black pepper. It’s not as jammy as California zinfandel, but that’s not necessarily a problem. Unfortunately, the Don Gabriel doesn’t have retail distribution, but it is available through the winery’s three locations — Ivanhoe, Denison and Grapevine (prices slightly higher at the latter). Pair this with fall barbecue and tomato sauces.


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