Wine review: Evodia 2009

A reader suggested that I try this Spanish red, so I bought it and brought it home. It was only then that I noticed the alcohol level: 15 percent. Gulp.

But because I firmly believe in tasting a wine before I judge it, I did just that. And I can report that the Evodia ($10, purchased, available at Whole Foods) handles the high alcohol well. Save for touch of alcohol-inspired heat at the front, that 15 percent wasn’t an issue.

Having said that, the Evodia is not a subtle wine, and it does need food like beef, sausage or something else with enough fat to offset its oomph. Father’s day barbecue, perhaps? It’s not a summer porch sipper by any stretch of the imagination; this is a New World-style garnacha with lots of sweet fruit (blackberries and cherries?). It doesn’t have much more than that, but what’s there is excellent, and it’s a candidate for the 2012 $10 Hall of Fame.


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