Wine review: Pasa A Paso 2009

I needed two wines to go with paella that I was making (and which didn’t turn out well at all, but which is a story for another time). I knew the red I wanted, and which will show up here one of these days. I wasn’t sure about the white; all I knew was that I wanted something that I had not tried before and that it should cost $10.

Which is how the Paso ($10, purchased, available at Central Market) ended up in my shopping cart. I didn’t know the producer, Bodegas Volver, but I knew the importer, Jorge Ordonez, who was one of the first to being quality Spanish wine to the U.S. The price was right, and the Paso was made with verdejo, which makes seafood-friendly wines that are usually more expensive.

Call it wine-buying roulette, and yet another example of why wine is so much fun. I took a chance and won. The Paso was everything I hoped it would be and a little more — fresh and lively with lots of citrus-style acid and stone fruit flavors. It wasn’t as complex as a pricier verdejo, but it wasn’t supposed to be.

This is exactly the kind of wine that I wish more California producers appreciated: Well-priced and well-made, and just the thing to drink with dinner when you want wine but don’t want to spend a lot of money or endure wine-pairing hell.


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