Ribs and Kreuz sausage at Lockhart Smokehouse. Photo by Alison Fechtel

Lockhart Smokehouse. Photo by Alison Fechtel

Lockhart Smokehouse FAMOUSLY doesn’t carry barbecue sauce. “If you see someone adding sauce, then there’s something wrong with the meat,” owner Jeff Bergus says. Inspired by the Central Texas barbecue philosophy, pitmaster Tim McLaughlin uses a wood-fire, custom-built A.N. Bewley smoker, which doesn’t alter the taste of the meat. “We’re breaking down the meat, not flavoring the meat,” he says. Guests receive their orders on butcher paper with no utensils, in keeping with the Kreuz Market legacy. Bergus’ cousin owns the 110-year-old butcher shop-turned barbecue restaurant in Lockhart, Texas. That’s where McLaughlin learned everything he knows about smoking, which was quite a change — he previously specialized in French and Asian cuisine. “This is better because we only have a few items on the menu,” McLaughlin says. Lockhart offers beef, chicken, sausage and pork for $5-$7.50 per half-pound. Pickles, onions and crackers come with each order. Most sides range from $2-$4, including the deviled eggs made with chopped meat and popped into the smoker for extra flavor. Bergus and McLaughlin chose the Oak Cliff location because of its resemblance to Austin. “We fell in love with the neighborhood,” he says. The building’s interior pays homage to the auto parts store that occupied the space during the 1940s and ’50s. There’s also Kreuz memorabilia, including the original Kreuz Market sign. Bergus says he isn’t concerned about the barbecue competition in Oak Cliff since all of best smokehouses in Central Texas are located within walking distance of each other. “They’re all neighbors,” he says.

Lockhart Smokehouse
400 W. Davis, 214.944.5521
Pictured: ribs and Kreuz sausage

Three more spots for barbecue

1 Luckie’s Smokehouse
Transformed from an old abandoned gas station, Luckie’s is a sit-down restaurant instead of the typical buffet-style barbecue joint. The expansive patio and big-screen TVs make it a great place to watch the game.
1300 W. Davis

2 Papa Joe’s Backyard Barbecue
This smokehouse really does have a backyard, which serves as a playground for a more kid-friendly vibe.
1233 Newport

3 Smoke
Chef Tim Byres focuses on Southern-style barbecue using fresh, local ingredients from the restaurant’s on-site garden.
901 Fort Worth Avenue