What makes this French white blend interesting is that there doesn’t seem to be anything interesting about it. It doesn’t have a cute label, no one wrote glowing prose about it, and there isn’t a hip and with it QR code. It doesn’t come from an especially fashionable region of France and it’s almost impossible to find any reference to it on the Internet.
None of which matters in the least. The Saint Florin ($10, purchased, available at Central Market) is a solid and sturdy white Bordeaux, a blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc from the Entre-Deux-Mers area within Bordeaux – a part of France where dozens of wines like this are still made that offer value and quality. Call it an honest wine from Jean-Marc and Catherine Jolivet, who are fourth-generation winemakers from Soussac in Bordeaux and own another small producer in Entre-Deux-Mers.
The Saint Florin is fresh and clean, with some grassiness, a little citrus and a sort of stony finish. Plus, it’s just 12 1/2 percent alcohol, and all of this makes it a terrific food wine. I paired it with with shrimp and linguine, and I don’t know that the result would have been all that much better with a more pricey Sancerre or a sauvignon blanc from Napa.