Chicken Scratch made headlines this spring for a billboard on Interstate 30 poking fun at its location with the deadpan tagline, “Between some trailers and a condemned motel.” The real selling point is that big biscuit sandwich, though. Chicken Scratch roasts whole hens and cures and smokes its own bacon. The kitchen pickles its veggies, makes sauces from scratch and even formulates the fountain sodas (when you can’t decide, try half strawberry soda, half lemonade). Call it slow food fast. The combination of value and commitment to quality keeps customers coming back. “I had a guy come in one day, and he came back three days in a row,” says sous chef Frankie Torres. A guy from Seattle took a cab straight from the airport after a previous visit, Torres says. The restaurant changed its menu in February with a focus on “knife-and-fork biscuit sandwiches,” which live up to their name with almost unruly fixin’s. The Foundry sandwich ($8; it’s the one on the billboard) has fried chicken, mashed potatoes, bacon, cheese, pickles, mustard and honey, for example. But you don’t have to blow your weekly calorie budget to splurge at this family-friendly joint. The spicy quinoa salad ($6) is one of two vegan dishes on the menu. It comes with spicy pickled vegetables, olives and a carrot-ginger dressing on a bed of mixed greens.
2303 W. Pittman
Ambiance: FAST CASUAL/TEXAS BEER GARDEN
Price range: $6-$10
Hours: SUNDAY-THURSDAY, 11 A.M.-9 P.M., FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, 11 A.M.-10 P.M.
More places to dig on bird
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The green sauce is available by the bottle now. But how does one use it except to drip it into a corn tortilla filled with juicy, char-skinned chicken and some of those oily onions?
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