Much American-made pinot grigio is actually closer in style to pinot gris than it is pinot grigio. Producers in this country call it pinot grigio because the Italians have spent so much time and money marketing the name. Hence, they’re more than happy to piggyback on that effort. (The grapes are, for all practical purposes, the same. The difference in style comes from climate and cultural differences.)
Which is why anyone who buys the McManis (about $9, available at Whole Foods) and expects an Italian-style wine, with not much fruit and that quinine quality that seems ever present, will be disappointed. If, on the other hand, you want a quality wine with juicy, almost peachy fruit, and a stony finish, then try this. McManis, a quality cheap wine producer, would be better served calling this pinot gris.
It’s easily a better buy than similarly priced pinot grigio imports (and many California labels), and is a $10 Hall of Fame contender. It will stand up to a variety of white wine food, and should be quite nice with grilled chicken.