“The Last Asado” lights up the dining room at Chimichurri, a neon sign over a send-up of The Last Supper that features Argentine soccer greats instead of Jesus and the apostles.

The painting was commissioned in Mexico City, along with a wall-size depiction of Madonna as Evita Perón and more neon: “No llores por mi Argentina.”

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There’s also Argentine rock star Gustavo Cerati, the late soccer great Diego Maradona and tango singer Carlos Gardel, commemorated in oil paints and lights.

Behind the bar there’s James Slater, former head bartender at Five Sixty by Wolfgang Puck, shaking things up with fernet con coca, the Argentinian drink also known as a Fernando; that’s fernet and cola with ice, which Slater serves in a topless Coke can. He’s crafted a menu of cocktails that cost $12-$13, like the paloma de mendoza, with Espolón reposado tequila, Italicus dessert wine, grapefruit, lime and Jarritos soda.

Owner Jesús Carmona had a vision for this restaurant, which he opened in August after being forced to close both locations of his popular taquería, Tacos Mariachi, last year. He visited a friend’s Argentinian restaurant in his hometown, Mexico City, and the inspiration was born.

“This space became available, and it was perfect for what I wanted to do,” he says.

In the former home of Tillman’s Roadhouse, Chimichurri will soon have a speakeasy called the Tango Room in the separate private dining room at the back of the building. Carmona eliminated an office and enlarged the room, which will have a bar and two big banquettes. Entry will be through the alley, marked with more neon, and a heavy curtain will separate it from the restaurant.

The full name is Chimichurri Argentinian Bistro & Bar, and it’s also a steakhouse with a $35 rib-eye. Carmona worked for many years in steakhouses such as John Tesar’s restaurants Knife and Spoon, after all.

But anyone can grab a $4 empanada. There are six, and they’re beautifully handmade, including one with lamb, onion and fennel and one with mushrooms, mozzarella and goat cheese.

The wine list includes 40 labels, 80% from Argentina and 20% from California. A glass costs $8-$14.

The dinner menu also features an arugula salad with roasted beets, blue cheese and fried garlic chips in red wine vinaigrette. Cappelletti, pasta stuffed with braised lamb and mushrooms, is served in a creamy sauce.

Plus, there are six pizzas, including one with burrata and mortadella and one with arugula and Parmesan.

It was a rough pandemic year for Carmona, who was laid up with a broken ankle, besides closing his beloved restaurants.

But he is blowing and going again in a restaurant that shows a similar funky style and personality as Tacos Mariachi, just on another level. He commissioned a West Dallas artisan to fabricate the chandeliers using wine bottles. He built out a wine room with recycled wood. And everywhere, there are framed photos of American celebrities sipping mate, the national drink of Argentina. He’s a Mexican with an Argentinian restaurant in Texas, and it shows.

“We wanted to make it more fun,” he says.

Chimichurri: 324 W. Seventh St. chimichurribishoparts. com, Hours: 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, noon-11 p.m. Saturday, noon-9 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday and Tuesday