I am, as is well known, is a huge fan of Spanish sparkling wine, which is known as cava. In fact, my enthusiasm for cava, and especially Cristalino, annoys more than a few retailers of my acquaintance.

One of them, in fact, insisted that the Casteller cava (about $10, available at Central Market, purchased) was so much better than the Cristalino brut rose that I would stop nagging her about it. I wouldn’t go that far — what would I be without nagging? But it’s a solid, dependable, value-oriented wine.

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Look for a lot of bubbles, some raspberry fruit and all the minerality that cava is known for. It’s not rich or creamy like Champagne, but it’s not supposed to be. I drank this on Thanksgiving and it was more than fine. It will pair with most holiday foods, and can also serve as the sparkler of choice during the New Year’s season.