This was one of the first wines to make the original $10 Hall of Fame almost 10 years ago. It was called Texas White, cost $2.99 and you could buy it at 7-Eleven. I caught some ribbing for that.

The wine dropped off the list after a couple of price increases and a drop in quality. The winery, Texas’ largest (it also does Peregrine Hills), went through ownership changes and the fate of this kind of vin ordinaire wasn’t high on the agenda. So when I saw it recently for $3.89 at Goody Goody and re-labeled as an American wine, I thought I’d try it. I didn’t have high hopes.

Which, once again, shows why one needs to taste the wine before judging it. The Ste. Genevieve – a blend of chenin blanc, chardonnay, French colombard and pinot grigio from Texas and California — is a bit thin on the back, but not unpleasantly so. Otherwise, it can hold on its own with any $10 wine. There is a floral nose with a hint of sweetness, some green apple, and not enough oak to bother anyone. Buy a case, keep it cool, and open it anytime you want a glass of white wine.