Lockhart doesn't fool with plates, forks or sauce.

You might have to put on ice skates to get there today, but however you should arrive, Lockhart Smokehouse is worth the trip.

It’s the first Hill Country meat market-style barbecue place in Dallas, and it’s here in the ‘hood.

We skated in on Tuesday, when the icy streets were mostly deserted, and owners Jeff Bergus and Tim McLaughlin invited us to “go get something to eat”.

We tried brisket, ribs and two kinds of Kreuz sausage — original and jalapeño. The meat is served on butcher paper with white bread and saltines, and you eat it with your hands. No plates, no forks, no sauce.

Confession: I’ve never been to Lockhart. So this was my introduction to Kreuz sausage and Hill Country-style barbecue (unless you count the Salt Lick). But it’s tender, juicy and fatty with a nice smoke ring. Pretty sure that’s how it’s supposed to be.

We also tried spicy pickled vegetables, which were terrific. Next time, we’ll go in on smoked corn on the cob, brisket-stuffed deviled eggs and coleslaw.

Co-owner Jeff Bergus says he wanted to open a similar concept in New York City several years ago. And he’s surprised no one has done it in Dallas yet.

Oak Cliff seemed like the perfect location because it’s an arty little community — it’s kind of Austin-ish, Bergus says.

Co-owner Tim McLaughlin spent several weeks training at Kreuz Market in Lockhart. And he intends to go back regularly, “to get this place as close to that,” he says.

Lockhart opens today. Get in there.