Photography by Kathy Tran
The bishop arts District’s only sushi spot marks its 14th year in business this month.
Zen Sushi chef and owner Michelle Carpenter says she owes it to our neighborhood, which supported her from day one.
“These are my people. This is my community,” she says. “This is where I live. This is where I work. A lot of my staff live in Oak Cliff.”
The menu has changed a little in a decade and half, but not a lot.
Customers still love the Sakura Roll, Carpenter’s original creation, with crab, shrimp and clam in a soy wrap. The bacon yakitori is still a hitter, as is the beef gyoza, both popular from the beginning.
Newer items like Zen bruschetta, made with the unique combination of fried eggplant and raw tuna, have found an audience.
But longevity in this business means consistency, and Carpenter sometimes has to bridle her creativity.
“There are some items that I would like to maybe change a little bit, but I think my customers would be upset,” she says. “When I do my Valentine’s dinner, I rarely change anything because the customers like that same menu every single year.”
But she does try to motivate her customers to try new things, and in turn, they challenge her with requests and suggestions.
Zen fared fine through the economic shutdown. The restaurant never closed, and no one was laid off, thanks to neighborhood customers who frequently ordered takeout.
Now the challenge, as with every restaurant, is a shortage of labor. It’s difficult to hire enough workers, so virtually every restaurant is understaffed, just as everyone wants to start dining out again. Carpenter says food costs have also gone up, and some items are harder to find because of supply chain frustrations.
But Zen is still open every day.
Carpenter recently served on the board of the Bishop Arts Merchants Association, and she frequently contributes to local nonprofits such as the Mammogram Poster Girls.
“I try to stay involved in the community and events,” she says. “I like to know what’s going on and do my part.”
