A lot of things have come and gone in Red Bird. Sadly, the area has seen better days. Some restaurants and stores that were lively in the 80s and 90s stand empty. Even the Black Eyed Pea, where I was fired — twice! — as a teenager for being the world’s worst waitress, is now a Chinese buffet. 

But Colter’s BBQ has not changed since the first time I went there in 1988. The food is still terrific at this cafeteria-style barbecue joint. A friend and I each ordered a two-meat plate, each of which came with two sides, so that we could try a litte of everything. Sliced brisket was the winner — tender and juicy, not overcooked, with a little of the sweet and spicy barbecue sauce. The sausage and chicken were good too — it’s so easy to dry out a chicken, but this one was cooked just right. The pulled pork was disappointing because it was not that fresh.

Anyone who knows about Colters probably knows about the onion rings. They’re thin and handmade with a tempura-like batter. So good. Our whole big meal was under $30, and you don’t have to leave a tip.